Treadwell WED-15 .......the Rise of the Machine..... Part 29

Post started 4th September 2025 - into October.

Treadwell has taken a back seat for a while now, but I wanted to finish building him before our annual builders Christmas meet-up, so with renewed energy.

List of things to do is always a good start:

    1. New idler axles                x 6 off👍

        New drive axles                x 2 off👍

    2. New correct Wheel spacers x 6 off👍

    3. New motors                     x 2 off......................??? 👈

    4. Signal booster fix. 👈

    5. Mast box build - 3D printed parts etc. - click here to see Box Build Post.   

    6. Remove the original guide wedges from the tracks.👍

    7. 3D print more new round track guides. 👍

    8. Remove the paint from the drive wheels [sticky]👍

    9. New front 'tension' blocks. 👈

    10. Unexpected track repair......... but then a WIN!!! 👈

    11. Volume knob. 👈

    12. Fake antenna UPGRADE. 👍

    13. LED's fitting to 'eyes'.

    14. Constraining the ‘eyes’ to each other.

1. Starting with....new axles:

I bought an 8mm dia rod months back, but it was slightly over size so needed turning down on the lathe in work, to fit through the bearings etc.

First one turned out good [turned.....machined.....see what I did there 😂]. Only having lunchtimes to do this, drill a centre hole to then use a revolving centre so as to be able to machine the full length of the spindles. Next is to then thread the ends for the flanged M8 Nylock nuts.

I also needed to machine up two new longer drive axles, to allow for the wheel spacers. These are 10mm diameter, stepped down to 6mm dia for the shaft coupler. No reason really for the 10mm dia size, except that this was going to be the size for all the axles.

2. Wheel spacers:

On closer inspection of the alternative WED base droid, seen in Mos Eisley ally way, WED-9-M1 (Star Wars Fandom), you see that the tracks are spaced away from the body!

WED-9-M1 DROID

So I had drawn up and 3D print off spacers, to match. Not sure how, but I got the diameter different, so had to reprint these. Not sure yet if these will be free rotating or if I will glue them to the wheels.

Pic from July 2024:

3.New Motors:

A possibility......???

My thoughts were that perhaps they wouldn't be up to the power needed. Even though testing proved they are.

4. Signal boosters:

I found that when WED was fully assembled, I was having problems with controlling his arm and head. One possibility was that the battery was low. The second was that [with my first time sending a signal over this long length of cable] the signal was too weak. So I bought two sets of boosters fly-leads to try 👍.

servo signal booster

5. Mast box build:

I had already drawn up plans for this when I designed the head box. See independent post for more details.

6 & 7 Track guide wedges - DELETED:

The 'screen accurate' guide wedges, were unfortunately too stiff for the tracks, and weren't flexible enough. So had to remove them and replace them with the new 3D printed round track guides [POINT 7].

7. Track guides:

I tried a few different variables, one being a slightly tapered diameter, after my original 'cannon' style didn't work, I decided to try this [credit goes to Paul's Bots]. Link to Paul's tread/wheels build.

I need to narrow the wheels channel for better location of the guides. So more 3D CAD/printing required.

UPDATE: 16.9.25

The new inner wheel guides printed great on version 2. These were slightly modified for structural strength and because visually they don't need to have the slits in like the wheels themselves.

After testing, I will update the 3D wheel models to incorporate this addition.

Here are the new wheel inner track guides, in black, glued in.

idle wheel with inner track guides

Test first guide popped into place on the track.

 

As with Paul, I made a 3D printed drill template so that the holes would all be central on the track. I did have to modify mine from the one I created from my moulds as the teeth sizes were slightly narrower.

So a total of 140 were printed off. 80 off each for every other groove.

8. Drive wheels paint removal:

The paint reacted with the curing rubber had became sticky, sticking to the tracks. So using sand paper, I removed the thick paint from the outer diameter faces.

9. Front 'tension' blocks:

The axles for the two front wheels were long enough, so I just altered the [3D printed] inside face that has the nut recess, so that a Nylock nut can secure the axles in place.

The location on the base has to be repositioned as the original tracks were a bit too long, requiring some woodworking alterations.

10. Track repair/replacement:

It wasn't on my original list of things to do, but on removing one or two of the 'track guide wedges', on an early join [one NOT overlapping] the joint broke. So I ordered some more rubber mix, but repair work will be put on hold as....... 👇👇👇

New Tracks:

11.Sept.2025

I thought I'd have another search inline for the tracks [super-charger timing belts] and found some here in the UK [at last]. Decided to bite the bullet and purchase a pair.

Click picture for link to Bolton Engineering Products.

I have no affiliation with this company, am linking for future builders.

The calculated cost of me making my own tracks was over £100 in total, not including the time to design up and 3D print off the moulds etc. The fact that they are also NOT internally web meshed, didn't fill me with confidence on they're lasting performance. They would still be ok for 'display' purposes.

UPDATE: 16.9.25

Belts arrived and I couldn't be more happier 😊😊😊😊😊

It may sound strange, but there are certain things that, for reliability, need to be sound. The fact that Tread needs the tracks to be 100% dependable/straight/strong, means that driving him with confidence is now a guarantee.

11. Volume Knob:

Still not as loud as R5, plus it does need to have a noise suppressor fitted. So whilst searching for ideas, I found this for drone fpv video feed interference suppression.

I fitted it, after some testing to find the cause, inline with the mini 'step down voltage regulator.'

And of course, I had to CAD up a bracket for it to be mounted onto the control board. The volume still isn't up to the loudness of R5......

12. Fake Antenna base:    [6.10.25]

I wasn't really happy with the fact that the fake rear antenna, was made out of a steel piece of bar, no flexibility and defo safety concerns lol.

So drew up an adaptor in TPU that fits between the two parts as a test. This then fits onto the original base part. The upper section is also now a found piece of leftover carbon tube.

13. LED's fitting to 'eyes':    [8.10.25]

This had been on my to-do list to bring some 'life' to Tread. Recently got hold of some large blue bulbs and sockets for them off eBay. Drew up a holder in CAD and 3D printed off some test versions, figuring out along the way how best to install them.

Originally it was going to be on the inside base of the head units.

Idea no2 was to mount the LED brackets to the rear of the lens window frames.

Tested the LED bulb behind the acrylic and it looks good, but needs to be diffused more????

14. Constraining the ‘Eyes’: (16.10.25)

The single-servo’d ‘Eye’, wasn’t very well linked/connected to the other. This bugged me!

So I needed a better way to constrain its movements.

I came up with the idea of installing the geared parts from a broken servo, into the unservo’d housing. So I re-designed the fake piston and connected both servo horn arms to it. Making the second ‘eye’ constrained with the servo controlled one.

UPDATE POST WITH picture(s)..........

Almost the end of November, and still have a few last things to get ready before the annual Droid Builders Christmas get-together....

A weekend blitz on the to-do list including the mast box build, and the final piece was to open up the slot for the front wheel axle, and some new location plate holes.

All (99%) complete, ready for next Saturday…… display and testing lol.

This Build has reached 29 stages, so to round off, I'll post one last Blog update with loads of photos lol, to make it a nice round 30.

#treadwelldroid #droidbuilders #rebeldroidsnet #3dprinting

Treadwell WED-15 : Mast Box build

September 2025

As the title suggests, this is a box that will store Treads Mast, and also for transportation to events etc. I won’t have to worry about it being knocked etc.

Started again on this, (September), I copied and modified the 3D lid corners etc from the head box build.

List of parts:

• Base corners 3D printed [already printed - 2024] but were reprinted in TPU.
• New lid parts, based on 6mm thick MDF, head box used 4mm.
• New design for lid corners & lid edge pieces - 3D printed.
• 6mm thick MDF, due to box length.
• 30mm x 30mm black plastic angle, for the joint edges.
• Fake carbon fibre wrap.
• Clasp latches (didn’t use).
• Foam padding.
• Strap material (already have).

And so it begins…. 25/10/25

Base board cut to size

Next up was cutting the right angle plastic strips. These will be fixed through to the board.

Next was drilling corner feet location holes. These were originally going to be pop riveted like the head box but the thicker wood meant countersunk bolts and nuts.

Started with the base board, cut to size. Used the last pieces of carbon wrap from the head box on it. It has 3D structural support angles that will help to strengthen the sides/base. See picture below.

These are all drilled and bolted along with pop rivets fitted. Next up was the first end panel, cut/covered/holes drilled and bolted to the 3D printed base corner piece.

 

The lip/lid corners/lengths needed a redesign [picture above, right] from the head box as the lid didn't need additional support/strength due to the MDF's thickness.

Needed to buy some more wood lol, this will complete the remaining long side and the lid itself.

The foam strips I had in the garage from a previous project.

Assembling the base corners I noticed that the strain on them was more than on the head box, and the recessed corners caused the bottom half to split. So I re-printed them in TPU.

With the second sheet of wood I was able to complete the other side and start on the lid piece. Redesigned the 3D printed lid edges. I also drew up and printed off some strap catches out of TPU and also some, flexible hinges, again out of TPU. These will be secured in place with bolts etc.

Next was to TPU print some carry handle fixing points.

I hand stitched the edges to secure the straps onto the fixings. These straps were long enough to take the load and were fixed at furthest points possible, for balance etc.

Final pieces, to cover the lid in vinyl wrap, weather protection for the wood mainly, and two velcro lid straps.

I’ll post up some finished photos in a follow up Blog post, probably in the Xmas event next weekend.

Prusa account - free 3D stl files.

I'll upload the 3D files from this project to my account [link here].

Machining parts for Mike B

 Just some more components, I made for Mike B.

Aluminium hex bar, drilled both ends and tapped with an M6 thread.

Enough so that if it needs the overall length to be shortened, it can be.

First picture also has part of the second component I had to cut to length, drill a 4mm dia hole in one end, with a milled corresponding flat length on the other end.

From concept to reality - A New Astromech - JLD

Concept artist, Jake Lunt Davies, posted up some of his work back around August 2023. They were based on future R series astromech droids as possible design ideas.

Artwork by Jake Lunt Davies

 

Checkout Jakes Wookieepedia page here: https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/Jake_Lunt_Davies

Role on to October 2024: Mike liked these designs and had the idea to combine the bits he liked best into a new 'JLD style Astromech'.

He asked if I could convert the images into 3D printable pieces. And when I say 'convert', what I actually mean is, drawing up in 3D CAD using only my interpretation [scale] of the images to the best of my abilities 😁😁😁.

Just two of the components I created

Mike himself, started to build the body/legs/feet etc and created his own 'skins' for the body. These being different to R2's and are also a combination created, based on Jake's designs.

The foot shell's had to be designed up and scaled, basing them on 'standard' R2 style feet motors etc. He then asked about could I possibly draw up a spring....

Several attempts later.....

a 3D printed spring
[this one with a back, to allow flex, but not break]

Just to show how springy this original one is, here's a link to my YouTube shorts. This was just regular PLA filament.

Here's some more progress pictures. Build credit to Mike B.

Material list: Wood internal frame and legs, other parts are 3D printed and assembled by Mike, inc painting.

Mike finished his build early 2025 and was able to introduce his JLD droid to the real JLD, this year at Droids @ Mshed event. Jake was most impressed that his designs had become a real working droid. Here's some of the pictures from the event.

Jake was kind enough to sign Mikes build

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Big thanks to Lee Towersey and to Jake Lunt Davies.

3D printing parts project for Mike B

October 2025

My mate Mike, asked for my expertise's 😁😂 in how to make things work better.

So I made a few adjustments and CAD/3D printed a new part which fitted better and with some very light flat sanding, to remove the high spots around the new 3D printed parts outside dimeter..... it fitted nice and snugly and ran smoothly.

The addition of some lithium grease will also help.

-----

This is all related to a new project that he is working on....

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